I’ve always questioned graffiti.  I didn’t understand it.  It was always used to deface schools or public places with derogatory words.  I never would have imagined how it could truly be a powerful form of art that transcends pleasing optic images and serves as a bridge to deepen cultural understanding, liven up a beaten down neighborhood or help marginalized groups of people feel included.  In Santiago and Valparaiso, graffiti became street art.  There was nothing malicious about it, just pure beauty.

My first introduction to Santaigo’s street art scene was in Bellavista.  It was New Year’s Day so the streets were relatively vacant and all shops were closed.  As we wandered deep into the neighborhood, the streets felt so full of life even though no one was around.  Walls were covered with sidewalk to roof murals.  Windows were ornately outlined to pop and doors invited you to enter The hair salon’s outer walls featured sharp sheers and long flowy hair.  The jazz club had a film noir lounge scene.  Restaurants lavished plates by piling them high with fruits and vegetables.  I loved all of the bright colors but also the personality it brought to the neighborhood.  The walls acted as advertisements for the businesses, making you wonder what the interior looked like as the exterior walls were so ornate.

When I went to Valparaiso for a day I got a different perspective on street art.  Chile sits on a bed of fire – extremely prone to earthquakes.  In order to maximize structural integrity, building walls are made out of mud so that they are flexible to move when tremors hit.  Well, there can’t be a mud house in the rain so steel sheets are put up to cover the mud filled walls.  Problem is that steel rusts once wet.  Solution: paint murals over it and that is exactly what the people of Valparaiso did.  The city was a major port and always had leftover paint from the ships.  Residents used the paint to create murals up and down the hilly streets.  The end result made me feel like I was walking through an outdoor artist’s gallery.

The last place I went to in Santiago, where street art took on a few meaning and beauty, was the Museo de Cielo Abierto, the Open Air Museum.  I didn’t know what to expect as I rode the metro 30 minutes out of the city, but this seemed like something different to see.  As I exited the metro, it was apparent I was in a much different part of the city.  Garbage was everywhere, walls were topped with cut-up glass, people stared more as we walked by.  For the longest time, I was convinced that I took a wrong turn or the museum had been closed.  It turned out that the museum was actually a whole neighborhood of low income housing where artists had been commissioned to paint murals on the ends of the buildings.  The photos below try to do them justice.  What struck me in this community was the diversity of murals.  I felt like the goal was to illustrate that everyone was included in this community and foster cultural understanding through art.  Some images paid tribute to aboriginal cultures, others featured children at play or animals leaping through the jungle.  Many others had immigrants and minorities represented.  The buildings were no longer low-income houses to me but a beautiful place to live.  The art truly transformed this area.

I am in awe of these murals.  It’s all I can do to draw a normal size circle, much less figure out how to paint a coherent landscape on a four-story building.  I’m grateful that Chile opened my eyes to the positive beauty of street art and several of its different uses.  While I love how art has been used to bridge cultural divides and add beauty to otherwise rusty steel sheets, all the murals give their area personality and vibrancy.  In a cookie cutter neighborhood in the States, this would be deemed socially unacceptable.  Even having a yellow or purple house would be a major no-no, but this culture embraces color.  It makes me wonder what are the sociological origins that limit our house choices to grey, blue or tan in the States?  And why haven’t we thought more of turning massive wall spaces into a canvas of expression?

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