When you are only a 2 hour ferry ride from another country, how can you not go? This was pretty much my rationale for a quick weekend jaunt over to Uruguay. It wasn’t high, or even on my list, but why not – I am right there! It would mean I had visited 60 countries before my 32nd birthday.  I’m so glad I did.  Perhaps it is because I went into this trip with no expectations other than a nice getaway, but I absolutely loved Montevideo and would recommend everyone pop over there for a few days.

Our morning started out in style as we got ready to board the 7am ferry to Montevideo – the ferry company makes everyone wear booties similar to what you would see in an operating room.  The ferry’s floors were pristine but it was hilarious to see hundreds of people walking around wearing booties.  The ferry over to Montevideo was extremely well run.  Argentina and Uruguay immigration officials sit next to each other to expedite migration, and once the ferry has left port, the kids’ room starts a movie to keep all the children occupied.

Montevideo is a very calm city.  We were staying in the historic city center, right near the walking streets.  I think there are only two main walking streets to explore in Montevideo.  Very pleasant, both with a median of palm trees and dotted with bodegas, cafes and restaurants.  Estrecho, our lunch restaurant, was incredible.  We gave it 5 stars.  Arriving as it opened, we grabbed two of the 25 seats along the counter.  Sitting right in front of the grill, we watched meals being prepared with a deftness than only occurs in a well run kitchen.  My grilled provolone appetizer and the bok choy steak were delicious.  We also tried a bottle of tannat, Uruguay’s local wine.  Quite good and it was great to try a grape that only grows there.  The kitchen staff were delightful and spent time helping us understand the Uruguayan specialties that were incorporated into our dishes.

One of the most striking things we saw throughout our wanderings in Montevideo was that everyone carried around their mate cup and a thermos.  Mate, similar to Chinese green tea, is loose leaf and very popular in Argentina and Uruguay.  One unique aspect is that mate is drunk through a straw with a filter on the bottom of it.  In Buenos Aires, we’d see people drinking mate, but vendors would come around with hot water.  In Montevideo, everyone had their thermos tucked under their arm, ready to keep refilling their mate cups through out the day.  It was really fascinating to see their pervasive behavior throughout the capital city.

 

On Sunday we opted to explore one of the wineries, Bodega Bouza, located about 15 minutes outside of Montevideo.  The vineyard was beautiful with peacocks roaming freely.  Definitely one of the fanciest wineries I have visited – their tasting room even housed several classic cars.  At first thought this was a bit odd, but now I just think it’s brilliant.  The addition of unusual objects drives the message that this winery has something for everyone.  We enjoyed a tasting then lunch as we watched the baby peacocks pick up dropped food.  Not a bad way to spend the afternoon before boarding a ferry.

All in all, an overnight trip to Montevideo was perfect.  We didn’t feel rushed, ate some great meals, tried the local wine and had a chance to relax by the pool.  The people were incredibly friendly and helpful throughout the city.  If you ever find yourself with some free time in Buenos Aires, definitely hop on the ferry and head to Uruguay.  I also just learned that my grandparents did this same trip about 40 years ago – I can’t wait to hear their stories next time I see them!

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