Iguazu Falls had been on my bucket list ever since I first read about it in college. A series of stunning waterfalls in the jungle – what’s not to love, especially when I’ve only really seen small waterfalls on hikes. While Niagara Falls has a lot of notoriety, Iguazu is the largest waterfall system with over 840 waterfalls. I’m not sure what all the different superlatives are for Niagara, Iguazu, Angel and Victoria, but I should probably aim to see them all and compare. Good life goal.
Iguazu Falls lies on the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay, with the Paraguay portion not having much to see. We skipped that part as I’m saving the heart attack I give my parents for something a little more epic. In researching ahead of time, blog posts kept saying that you need to go to both sides as they are very different. I couldn’t quite imagine how different the Brazilian vs the Argentina side could be. VERY DIFFERENT is the answer. In Argentina, you get to weave through the waterfalls; looking directly up or down in Devil’s Throat. The trails allow you to appreciate the beauty of Iguazu from all different vantage points. On the Brazilian side, you get to take a step back and enjoy the panoramic scenery. I didn’t realize the vastness and grandness of the waterfalls when I was walking through them. I appreciate them as individual sites, but from Brazil, the view of putting them all together was epic.
We started on the Argentina side, at La Garganta del Diablo, Devil’s Throat. This proved to be the perfect place to start. I didn’t know what to expect as we crossed a 1km bridge walk that spanned standing water and crossed mini “islands”. We loved every moment of it. Butterflies and beautiful birds flying around. I think if I knew how stunning the destination was going to be, I wouldn’t have enjoyed the long walk through the reservoir.
Once you reach Devil’s Throat, you are greeted with a roar of pounding water and a strong mist attacking your face. I couldn’t get over the force of the water flowing down nor could I see the bottom to really appreciate how high we were. (You see that from the Brazil side). It was our first glimpse of the Iguazu waterfalls and it didn’t disappoint. Gallons upon gallons of water spilling over the sides and visitors laughing as a gust of wind would push the mist right into their faces.
The other trail took you to the lower, middle and upper levels of the falls. The park did an outstanding job integrating trails around the waterfalls and into nature. There were scary coatis, a raccoon like creature, that looked adorable at first until they notice you had food, then the teeth came out. I still have a bit of PTSD from the camel bite, so I kept my distance.
You can also appreciate the waterfalls by going straight into them. A boat ride took us around the island and straight into several of the larger waterfalls. We were 100% soaked and it was completely worth it. It was the temporary thrill of whitewater rafting mixed with the mystique of being below one of the world’s most beautiful waterfalls. I couldn’t see a thing for a few minutes, water just kept beating down on my head. I really didn’t think we would be getting that close to the waterfall. I guess I should trust the TripAdvisor reviews a bit more.
I had found helicopter rides online prior to going to Iguazu, but ruled them out because of price; however, after the seeing the falls the possibility of taking a ride was back in my mind. Yes, it’s extravagant but I wanted to see how all the waterfalls fit together. It was really hard to gauge the scale of it when walking above or below them. I did some more research Saturday night in the hotel and found a more reasonable priced flight. The others were game depending on weather.
We left the hotel early Sunday morning to head over to Brazil. Immigration was surprisingly fast, and we pulled up in front of the helicopter pad. “Are we really doing this? We’ll just run in and check if there is availability.” Seven minutes later, we were taking off. I couldn’t believe it. The helicopter rose smoothly over the trees as a slight mist started. The bottom was plexiglass, so I could see everything below. The pilot did an incredible job of getting up close to the falls and taking us in from multiple viewpoints. No words can describe how breathtaking the view was and I think I got hooked on paying for aerial experiences. From the air, I could see how all of the waterfalls we walked through were connected and the massive scale of Devil’s Throat. Aspects that were not comprehensible from the ground now made so much more sense. I could have taken the helicopter ride 3 times. It was quick, but not rushed, I just don’t think I would have tired of the views.
As soon as we landed, the skies opened up and we zipped up our rain coats to prepare for a wet experience on the Brazil side of the falls. I had read a great deal about which side, Brazil or Argentina, was better for visiting the falls and everyone said you have to experience both. So true. In Argentina, we were above and in between the waterfalls. In Brazil, you got to appreciate the breadth and take in the landscape views. Plus we got to stand underneath Devil’s Throat, which is where we started on day 1, only seeing massive amounts of water bellowing down into a hole.
After we finished the Brazil circuit, we found a dry restaurant for food and drinks that would warm our souls. As a bonus, we had a lovely view of the top of Devil’s Throat and a baby alligatorkept us entertained, switching positions as soon as we diverted our eye’s. As we sat there enjoying caipirinhas, Brazil’s best known cocktail, we shared a constant state of awe – all of us waiting to find the perfect words to describe what we had seen but failing and falling into a beautiful silence of appreciation (and exhaustion.)
Iguazu – thank you for making one of my dreams come true. Not only were you spectacular but you’ve also convinced me that I need to spend more time in nature. I also love that I could hop over to Brazil for 6 hours. Diana and Lithia – Thank you for being incredible travel partners and never once complaining about the rain. What a difference being with a group that doesn’t complain about the weather. Cloudy? Whatever. Drizzling? Put on a rain coat. Pouring? Dance in it.
Here’s to one of the best memories of our time in South America!
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